(Un)breaking The Barrier

Between June and August 2022, my skin went through a very confusing time. I was experiencing more breakouts than usual, severe redness, sometimes hives! It was alarming. I quickly realised that it wasn’t my rosacea acting up. My skin barrier was damaged in need of repair. I hauled out my trusted Serra range from Lamelle and through consistent application, my skin finally went back to its usual self.

I chatted to Karen Bester, Medical Trainer at Lamelle about all things relating to our skin barrier; how to diagnose a damaged barrier, what triggers it, what products to use and so on.

*Please note that this isn’t a sponsored post. It’s a heartfelt article where I want to share personalized information relating to this topic. I hope it helps one, if not more of my readers going through the same thing with their skin.

KC: Please can you explain to us what a skin barrier is?

KB: The skin barrier is a combination of the top dead layer of the skin cells – called corneocytes (stratum coneum) with the ‘cement’ in between these cells (that is called lipid bi-layer). The lipid bi-layer is made up of very specific oils and layers of water.

The lipid component is made up of ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol.

KC: How do we know if our skin barrier needs repair?

KB: When your barrier is impaired it can be for two reasons –mostly because the lipid bi-layer has become damaged or is not being produced properly OR because you have lost an excessive amount of corneocytes.

A damaged barrier feels like:

- Skin feels tight and dry.

- Products applied to the skin irritate, tingle and burn and can cause the skin to become quite flushed and red.

- Sometimes the skin will look dull and dry and scaly.

- Your can have breakouts and pimples.

- Your skin can be inflamed and red.

- Your skin feels rough to touch.

- Allergic reactions can occur out of the blue and without warning. (In some cases this will be with products you have been using for years).

- Puffiness, swelling and hives are the worst case scenarios

KC: Can barrier damage be mistaken for rosacea?

KB: It can be – though with rosacea, the skin generally flushes with internal triggers like emotion, feeling humiliated, with exposure to heat and having a glass of wine. Rosacea is also generally limited to the nose cheeks and chin where barrier impairment can happen all over you face and body.

KC: How long does it take to repair a damaged skin barrier?

KB: This would very much depend on what caused the barrier to become impaired, how long the barrier has been impaired for and how meticulous the person is with their new routine. Some people do feel immediate improvement in comfort when they are using the correct products though. I would say you should try to use barrier correcting products for at least 6 weeks if you have had a full reaction to anything skin related.

KC:  What causes damage to your skin barrier?

KB: You can have a genetic pre-dispostion to have an impaired barrier. Psoriasis and ezema would be two conditions that we see running in families that are both associated with barrier impairment.

 Then, you can acquire it through the following:

Environment – Dryer times of the year and dryer environments.

Hormones – We do find that in women, peri-menopause and menopause will cause barrier impairment and sensitive skin syndrome (another part to this whole barrier challenge).

Products – You can strip the oils out of your skin by using the incorrect cleansers etc. We had a conversation just today about a green bar of soap that is used to ‘remove the oils’ and it does so VERY effectively. The challenge is that it does not work only on sebum. The soaps are lipophilic and penetrate into the barrier and break it down. Then you also have the added use of alcohol containing products.

Inflammation – Inflammation impairs the production of lipid bi-layer. When the lipid bi-layer is impaired, skin can become inflamed due to the impairment and in preparation for the penetration of foreign substances. If anything foreign does penetrate into the skin this causes even more of an inflammatory reaction. That then impairs the production of lipid bi-layer. You can try to solve the problem by blocking the inflammatory response with cortisones. This just solves one half of the challenge. It takes a long time for the skin to rebuild itself to its former structure if the lipid bi-layer is not replaced. Also think inflammation and acne.

Maturity – Age – Older skins have impaired barrier because of slowing down of skin cell activity and forming of new skin cells.

Allergies – If you apply an ingredient that you are sensitive to this triggers the immunity of the skin to product and inflammatory response that then will impair lipid-bi-layer production and impair the barrier.

Mechanical damage – This is where you physically lose the corneocytes. This can happen when clothing and jewelry rub against your skin. You could use a scrub that removes too much healthy skin or you could go for an in-office procedure and decide not to follow your skincare therapist’s instructions for after care.

Stress – It’s a big contributor to sensitivity, dryness and barrier impairment.

Medication – That decongest and that you take to manage your sinuses. Also, extremely strong anti-biotics will affect the barrier of your skin. Apart from the fact that major illnesses will stress your body and double the effect on your skin.

Very hot bath or showers – Hot water can literally ‘melt’ the lipid bi-layer and wash it away.

KC: Do skin barrier issues only occur with those who have sensitive skin? Or can it happen to others (ie. Dry, oily, combination, mature, breakout-prone)?

KB: Some people are a higher risk than others but it’s something that could happen to anybody.

KC: What is the difference between a barrier repair cream and a moisturiser?

KB: This is a challenge and will differ from manufacturer to manufacturer. I prefer to talk about conventional moisturisers and lipid-bilayer replacement products. The reason why is that some companies talk about barrier repair creams (us included) as the cream that you use after you have had a professional treatment on your skin. These barrier repair creams are used to replace the damaged skin for the time that it takes to correct itself after the treatment.

Conventional moisturisers tend to contain vegetable oils that might or might not be compatible with skin lipids. They are designed to lie on top of the skin and don’t really penetrate much. They will trap water and they will keep foreign substances out of the skin if they are in place. Once you wash your face,your skin will feel tight and dry as the oils are removed and the skin is left to fend for itself.

Ingredients that replace the barrier will be specialist ingredients that can penetrate into the skin and replace the actual layered structure of the lipid-bilayer. This layer cannot be washed away – unless you use very hot water.

The key to lipid-bilayer replacement is that they ingredients need to be nearly intelligent. They lipid in the products, generally ceramides, need to organise themselves into a structure that is exactly the same as that found in skin. This is not true for all products that claim lipid bi-layer replacement.

KC: How often should one apply their barrier cream? And before or after moisturiser/sunscreen?

KB: Your lipid bi-layer replacement might become part of your life for ever or just for a small moment in time. Initially in a reactive skin I would suggest that you use the lipid- bilayer replacement product twice daily, after cleansing with a mild cleanser and then apply your sunscreen during the day. Start off with these products only. After two weeks I would re-assess your skin to see if it can manage going back to serums. These will then be introduced one at a time and generally one every week. The reason why I prefer to do this is that a serum generally contain high concentrations of active ingredients. If you are sensitive to one of them, your skin will show us quickly. If we were to apply a whole lot of products and ingredients at once we would not know what is causing the sensitivity. If all goes well we will then we will start to replace the lipid bi-layer replacement cream.

We will once again to it with one cream at a time. So starting withthe night cream, add it back in every second night for the first week. If your skin is okay, then we will add it in every night. Duringthe next week we will add in your day cream every second night and then every night the next week.

The process does take time but I find that too often we are too eager and just re-add a whole lot of ingredients back that then causes an allergic response – which might just be because the skin is overwhelmed and not really allergic to anything. Once your skin is its healthy self again it is a case of keeping it healthy. I find that when my cleansers start tingling a little too much or if my skin starts feeling tighter, I add some of the lipid-bilayer replacement products back into my routine for a few nights – generally I replace my night cream. You will also start noticing the triggers; change of season, stressful times or times where you’ve been testing too many products in a short period of time – this will all have a negative effect on your skin. You will then keep the right products at hand and be more careful with how you manage your skin.

KC: When will you start noticing results of your skin barrier repairing itself?

KB: Probably after a week or ten days of using the correct product you will see that your skin is more robust. This does not apply to people who have been using cortisone creams for a long period of time though. Their adjustment period can be extended.

KC: What main climate contributes the most damage to our skin barrier?

KB: Any extremes of temperature with a lowering of the humidity will cause barrier impairment. I always thought it was just the Gautengers and the Namibians that struggled until I landed in New York in the middle of an ice storm and my skin dried out in 3 seconds.

KC: What barrier creams can you recommend?

KB: The Serra range is my go-to. I will suggest a product depending on what you are experiencing on your skin.

LET’S CHAT!

Visit www.lamelle.co.za for more information.

Shop the entire Lamelle Serra range on SkinMiles here.

*Any questions? Email me: kelli@kelliclifton.co.za

The Best Kept Secret For First Time Shavers

…. and surprise surprise: it’s from ESI South Africa!

Two weeks ago, my fiancé asked me to shave his legs in preparation for the Cape Town Cycle Tour that took place on 10th October 2021.

As one would expect, we encountered a few cuts along the way but thankfully, the ESI South Africa Aloe Vera Gel which contains 100% Pure Aloe came to the rescue, healing Tyren’s razor cuts immediately. ⁣

We didn’t even need plasters.

Here’s an interesting Did You Know:

Aloe Vera’s molecular structure helps heal wounds quickly and minimizes scarring by boosting collagen and fighting bacteria. You can also apply the product up to three times a day. ⁣

3 Top Tips For Novice Shavers:

1. It sounds obvious but use a shaving foam - and preferably one that has moisturising properties. Avoid dry shaving altogether. This will help prohibit razor cuts and triggering sensitive skin.

2. Shave your hair in the direction of its growth. In this case, we shaved downwards, as it was leg hair.

3. Take your time. Do it in a room that has good lighting. You don’t want to miss any spots!

I hope this helps first time shavers. And kudos to my wonderful man for riding the Cape Town Cycle Tour. I’m so proud.

Purchase the ESI South Africa Aloe Vera Gel directly here.

Price: R140 for 100ml

Visit www.esisa.co.za for more information.

If you have any questions, please let me know below.

The Lowdown On Sensitive Skin

I’ve always been fascinated by skin sensitivity. Mainly, because I have it. I had the opportunity to chat to Karen Bester, Lamelle Medical Training Manager and pick her brain about this skincare phenomenon that so many of us experience on a day-to-day basis. Here’s what she had to say:

KELLI: Define the term ‘sensitive skin’.

LAMELLE: Sensitive skin is skin that reacts to ingredients, products, changes in temperature and weather where the bulk of the population would not see any change in their skin. The reaction can vary from just feeling tight, through dryness and inflammation, right up to a full allergic reaction that could include swelling, puffiness, itchiness and hives.

KELLI: How do you know if you have sensitive skin?

LAMELLE: The easiest way to find out if your skin is sensitive is if you know you have to be cautious when applying particular products to your skin. For instance, if you’re on a weekend away and you can’t just grab your best friend’s general day-to-day BB cream or moisturiser and apply it to your skin because you know your skin will react, you probably have sensitive skin.

KELLI: Are there different variants of sensitive skin?

LAMELLE: There definitely are variants.

Some people will just have the odd bit of redness when they use a product that their skin is sensitive to. Others might find that their skin always feels sensitive and sore. I had a student once who mentioned that her skin was so sensitive it went red when the wind started to blow on it.

Some patients who have severe medical conditions like eczema and acne need to have cortisone creams on hand at all times in case of flare-ups.

Others need to be careful in winter when the air is less humid and their skin becomes dry - thus resulting in sensitivity.

KELLI: Can sensitive skin be cured?

LAMELLE: This would depend on the cause of the sensitivity. If you have a genetic predisposition to sensitive skin, curing it would be difficult. What we can however do, is add ingredients that are specifically focused on correcting the problems that lead to the sensitivity in your skin. In some cases we might even find, that with a little help, your skin will normalise functions and we might be able to get your skin back to its unreactive state.

If we know that the sensitivity was triggered by a specific ingredient or treatment, it is easier to cure it. Firstly, you need to remember not to apply that ingredient to your skin. We then need to correct what was ‘broken’ in your skin and make sure that it is properly fixed before you apply your usual products again. Avoiding the sensitising product may mean your skin might never react with sensitivity ever again.

Karen Bester, Medical Training Manager for Lamelle and skincare sensitivity whizz.

KELLI: What ingredients should one look out for in a skincare product if you have sensitive skin? (Both to avoid and help prevent sensitive skin).

LAMELLE: If we truly consider sensitive skin, any ingredients that the skin gets exposed to regularly might cause irritation and an allergic reaction.

Dr Bradley Wagemaker, who is our formulating doctor and co-owner of Lamelle, insists on only formulating our products in such a way that they have the biggest potential to correct skin with the smallest risk for reaction in all skins. There in too lies a challenge – some ingredients might cause slightly more irritation. In those cases we will train the product specialist who are providing you with the products that they need to use these ingredients with care. This is why your skin care therapist will advise you to add in a product slowly over a few weeks and not just start using it twice a day in large amounts.

As a rule of thumb though we would suggest that you not use highly fragrances products and products where colourants have been added.

Then the argument for natural vs. chemical comes up – so let’s not ignore it.
The truth is that even natural ingredients have the potential to harm – arsenic and belladonna come to my mind. The word chemical is also misleading. H-2-O is a chemical and your body is made up of mostly H2O. Yes I do agree there are harmful chemicals in our world. I just don’t know why any manufacturer of skin care products, that wants a loyal client following, would put harmful chemicals in their product knowing that they are going to cause damage. 

At Lamelle many of the ingredients we use are made in a laboratory. The most important ingredient in our Serra range is made in a laboratory.

Why?

In the laboratory we can mimic structures and molecules that you have in your body. This means we can replace a full structure – like the lipid bi-layer – exactly as it would look in between your cells in your corneum (outer layer of skin). There might be plant extracts that are close to compatible oils but none that will bio-mimic this structure. This gives us very safe and very effective treatment options that have been well researched to give us results.

KELLI: What is the most common age group for sensitive skin?

LAMELLE: Even though age is not a determining factor in sensitivity, it is true that the older skin is, the more risk for sensitivity there is.

The key skin structure in protecting the skin form sensitivity is the lipid bi-layer. This layer protects the viable skin from foreign substances that might penetrate and cause irritation. This is also the layer that traps water inside the skin. As we age we produce less of the components that make up this layer – affecting our water binding and potential for reaction.

The older you are the more potential allergens you have been exposed to, making you a higher risk to acquire sensitivity.

Genetic predisposition is not linked to age though.

KELLI: What triggers sensitive skin?

LAMELLE: In the skin, foreign substances or substances that your skin perceives to be irritating, trigger a nerve response. The nerves then trigger an immune response that then trigger an inflammatory response. The inflammation then affects how the barrier is produced. This then becomes a vicious cycle/circle of reactivity.

We also now have data to support that in some people their nerves are abnormally sensitive to any change in the skin due to receptors on the nerve walls being activated. These are people who will perceive constant sensitivity, pain and discomfort of their skins. In some cases their skin is also much more reactive than any other person that they know. This condition is called Sensitive Skin Syndrome.

Generally, there are a few categories of patients with sensitive skin:

·      Medical conditions, psoriasis, eczema or atopic dermatitis, acne rosacea.

·      Genetic predisposition.

·      Hormonal fluctuations during pregnancy, peri-menopause and menopause might trigger sensitivity.

·      Exposure to ingredients or procedures that cause the skin barrier to be impaired and the skin to be unprotected e.g. if you have a chemical peel and do not use the correct aftercare products.

·      Exposure to a harsh environmental factors - for instance working in the sun all day or living in a desert.

At Lamelle we have focus on what you are seeing in your skin:

·      Correct the lipid bi-layer (and don’t just apply a cream on top of the skin).

·      Correct the pH of skin that has been dry for a long period of time. When the pH is impaired the skin cannot rebuild its own lipid bi-layer.

·      Inhibit the inflammatory responses (calm and sooth inflammation).

·      In sensitive skin syndrome, we turn off the over active nerve ending.

·      Where required we add anti-microbial ingredients just to make sure we are protecting the skins integrity from microbes that might cause infections.

KELLI: Does diet play a role in increasing skin sensitivity?

LAMELLE: A poor diet will definitely affect you skin’s general condition. If you tend to have sensitivity to what you eat this will also cause reaction of your skin.

KELLI: What skincare routine should one have in order to keep sensitive skin under control?

LAMELLE: A good basic skin care routine is extremely important for any patient with a sensitive skin. The focus is to maintain a good barrier, calm any inflammation, correct the pH of the skin and protect your skin from possible irritants.

Cleanse, essence, moisturiser is the minimum basic with sunscreen during the day. Your skincare therapist might add some serums but that would depend on how much sensitivity you are experiencing at the point of your visit.

KELLI: What are the best products from Lamelle to help manage sensitive skin?

LAMELLE: All Lamelle, skin care products are formulated with sensitivity in mind. This does mean that your skincare therapist could add any of the products to your skincare regime. It’s important to initially stabilise and normalise processes in the skin that allow the sensitivity to take place. For this we always go back to the Serra range of products.

Your skincare therapist will choose the products that are most suited to your skin in her consultation with you.

However, I recommend using the below products during the following steps:

1. Cleanse

Use the Lamelle Serra Cleanser (R220). This is a creamy gel cleanser that contains very mild surfactants to break the surface tension of oils on your skin to remove oils, dirt, grime, pollutants and makeup off your skin.

2. Applying a Skin Essence

Aka skincare priming liquid. Your skincare therapist will choose the one that is most suitable for your skin:

·      Skin Essence Clear, R385 – for very sensitive and problematic skin

·      Skin Essence Rejuvenate, R410 – for younger, healthier skin

·      Skin Essence Corrector, R410 – for older, more sun-damaged skin that is not acne-prone

3. Applying a Corrector

When skin is very sensitive we suggest that you start with the most simple product routine. This step will be left out until we can correct the irritation. In less sensitive skins, your therapist might select one of the following Lamelle Correctives products to boost your results:

·      Correctives HA+ Serum, R700 – to boost hydration and plumping

·      Correctives Vita C Lipid Serum, R880  – boosts anti-oxidant levels for those who are exposed to free radicals or are smokers. The product is also highly recommended for management of ageing in sensitive skin.

·      Correctives Intensive GF Serum, R860 – Growth Factors are our best tool to rejuvenate skin and this formulation is highly stimulating of cells without risk of irritation.

·      Correctives Brightening Serum, R910 – for those who want to treat hyper-pigmentation but their skin is sensitive. Your skincare therapist will have to correct that before starting on the full pigmentation inhibition program. She can however add the Brighter Serum to your routine as it contains potent inhibitors of hyper pigmentation in a base that supports barrier repair.

4. Moisturise

There are three moisturisers in the Lamelle Serra Range:

·      Serra Restore Cream, R530 – for dry skin

·      Serra Soothing Cream, R725  – for dry skin that is showing signs of irritation

·      Serra NSB Cream, R640 (launched in April 2021) – for patients with very sensitive skin syndrome, those who experiece sensitivity with severe flushing and lastly, people who suffer from hypersensitivity. We believe this product will change how sensitivity is managed on skin for ever.

The new Serra NSB Cream is my new skincare lifesaver. It calms, soothes and sorts out any form of sensitivity. Try it!

5. Sunscreen, sunscreen, sunscreen!

I know that some people might consider sunscreen on sensitive skin a bad idea.

Sensitive skin needs added protection from the sun. For this reason I advise that people with sensitive skin apply Lamelle Helase 50, R540. They need to apply their sunscreen daily, regardless of if they are spending time in direct sunlight.

For very sensitive and inflamed skin I would also advise that they take our oral Lamelle Clarity Acnevelle Plus Supplement, R290. The ingredients in Acnevelle Plus are focused on calming inflammation from inside your body.

KELLI: Is sensitive skin more common amongst men or women?

LAMELLE: At this stage it seems that women are more sensitive than men. It might have to do with the fact that woman seek help faster. It also does have to do with subtle differences in skin structure between men and women.

KELLI: Do you have any quick fix recommendations for sensitive skin flare-ups?

LAMELLE: There are no quick fixes, unfortunately.

Consumers who use the Lamelle Serra Range of products will get a near immediate relief.

Depending on the original cause of the sensitivity, most of us that have sensitive skin will have to be careful with how we look after our skin. It’ll help having some Lamelle Serra products close at hand. Just in case.

~FYI:

I always purchase my Lamelle products from Dermastore. They’re the best local online skincare store.

 Click here to purchase directly.

Visit www.lamelle.co.za for more info.

If you have any questions, please leave them below!

How Avène Thermal Spring Water Keeps My Skin Under Control

When you think of a facial mist, what springs to mind? Besides the way it cools the skin, keeps your makeup in place and provides a quick refresh during those scorching summer days – the defining factor of a facial mist for me personally, and of course, I’m referring to Avène’s Thermal Spring Water in this case, is the way it calms my redness and soothes the inflammation.

I’m very open about my mild form of rosacea that occurs on my nose and cheeks area. It flares up when you least expect it and is super uncomfortable; it itches, sometimes burns and gives your skin a hot, uneasy feeling.

I use lots of facial products to ‘tame’ it but nothing works as quickly and effectively as the Avène Thermal Spring Water.

I’ve used this spray for years so I’m no stranger to this miracle worker and now find it difficult to not incorporate it into my daily life. Having started a rigorous gym regime two months ago, (I do up to five sessions a week) meant that I needed a quick fix to perk up my skin but keep it under control.

My Top 5 Tips for Avène’s Thermal Spring Water

1. Don’t be reluctant to use the spray after an intense workout – it’s safe to use on your face as well as your body. It cools your skin down and refreshes it within seconds. Hold the mist 15-20cm away from the area and spritz away.

2.  Avène’s Thermal Spring Water is available in three different sizes: 50ml, 150ml and 300ml. I always keep one in my handbag (ideal for traveling, especially when flying), the medium size one in my gymbag (we all know why) and one next to my bed as my skin likes to go red sometimes before I go to bed.

3. It’s brilliant to cool down your body temperature after a hot shower! Ever since I’ve started working out, my body battles to get back to its normal temperature and when I apply makeup, little beads of sweat would form. The Avène Thermal Spring Water prevents this and keeps your skin under control.

4. Feel free to use the spray on babies and small children. It’s completely safe and suits even the most sensitive skin types.

5. Try the Avène Thermal Spring Water on your scalp too. It works wonders on sunburn and soothes it profusely, without making your hair look or feel dirty.

Click here to find your nearest stockist.

(Clicks also has a great promo happening at the moment: Buy any 3 Eau Thermale Avène products and only pay for 2. Offer valid in-store and online until 21 March 2019, while stocks last.)

*This article is sponsored by Eau Thermale Avène.

Now, I want to hear from you! Have you tried Avène’s Thermal Spring Water before? How has it benefited your skin?